Parnitha - Platosi

Rock, Sport

The beautiful north-facing crag of Platosi with the characteristic stalactite-adorned cave, has been the subject of a judicatory argument among rock climbers and a stubborn self-proclaimed owner; marking the first time Greek rock climbers had to follow the legal path in order to gain access to the rocks. The place has been discovered in 1984 but it was not before 1994 that the crag obtained its second line. The arbitrary fencing of the crag reduced it to a private backyard and deprived climbers from accessing the rock for several years. Not until only recently, the fencing has been partially withdrawn, allowing the bare minimum access to the place. Still, the iron poles that remain continue to pose problems on some of the hardest routes mainly in terms of the leader landing on them in the case of a fall.

The remnants of the judicial grudge left apart, Platosi is a great choice for sport climbing in the range of 6b to 8a. All but two routes are bolted and require only quickdraws. The orientation of the crag makes it a good choice for climbing during the warmer months of the year as most routes never see the sun. Climbing is also possible on mild winter days but beware of the rainy season as the stalactites tend to dribble water for days after heavy rains.

Acharneis, the smaller neighbour of Platosi, is a recently established crag dedicated to be training ground for climbing schools and beginner climbers. This is reflected on the relatively low "novice-friendly" grades of the routes. Beginners will find plenty of lines below 6a, fully protected by bolts and into the shadow for most of the day.

Platosi is a rare example of an Athenian crag that is possible to reach via public transport. The easiest way to approach the rocks is by catching bus A12 to Fyli from the stop outside the Attiki metro station in the city center. After a journey of approx 30min to 1hr (depending on traffic) the bus will bring you just below the crag (bus stop no. 31A).

If you have your own vehicle, it is even easier to approach the rocks. Leave Attiki Odos on Exit 6 (Ano Liosia - Fylis Ave) and 500m after the exit, reach fountain roundabout. Continue on the main road (opposite as you enter the roundabout) for about 3,5Km till you see a characteristic colorful church on your right hand. Pass the church and continue for about 1Km. The crag is visible on your left hand side being a characteristic cave that seems to occupy the backyard of a solitary house. Reach the face by a clear path on the right side of the house (5min from the bus station to the rocks).

To get to the neighbouring crag of Acharneis continue from Chasia (by bus or car) for another 5min until you reach the first tavernas on the left hand side of the road. Just before the tavernas turn left to the old road that continues uphill behind the houses. Follow this road for 100-200m until you are able to see the various small outcrops of Acharneis up the hill on your left hand side.

Access to the field

Source: G. Chaziris
Photographs: G. Chaziris
Translation: G. Chaziris
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Parnitha
Location: Platosi
Published: 2008-10-19
Modified: 2012-11-12
Rock, Sport