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Grading

When publishing a route, descriptions and drawings usually refer to a variety of grading systems.

Correspondencies between tables of difficulties

As published by UIAA, the table that follows demonstrates the official correspondencies between different gradation systems.

Comparison between average difficulty of mountain routes and UIAA grading system

AD (III), D (IV), TD (V), ED (VI)

Winter routes

Severity
I. Easy ascents below 45°
II. Difficulties with easy protection
III. Big elevation, caution when returning, continuous difficulty, hard protection, no danger though
IV. Big elevation, caution when returning, isolated area, danger
V. Same as above, plus bivouac on the mountain crag

Snow - Ice
1. Up to 45°
2. From 45° to 60°
3. From 60° to 80°
4. From 80° to 90°
5. Beyond 90°

Mixed
M1. Up to II
M2. Up to IV
M3. Up to V
M4. Up to VI
M5. Up to VII

Ice quality
R. Thin ice
X. Fragile ice with danger of collapse

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