The crag of Mikri Varasova (Greek for “Little Varasova”) took is name after the apparent resemblance of its rock (being sharp in places) to the rock of famous seaside climbing destination of Varasova in central-west Greece. Although in terms of scale it’s only a miniature of the real Varasova, in terms of quality, variety and aesthetics the place holds many pleasant surprises to the visitor. It’s not by accident that Mikri Varasova is considered by many as one of the best choices for mid grade climbing in Athens.
Mikri Varasova has two main sectors but there are also a few climbs and unfinished projects spread around the two main faces. The style of climbing is considerably different from one sector to the other. The left hand side of the crag is a slightly overhanging wall with short dynamic routes, pumpy moves on good holds and occasionally smaller pockets. The right hand side is a beautiful 30m clean vertical slab with small pockets and crimps requiring good balance, fingery start ups and a cool head.
All but one routes in Mikri Varasova are fully equipped and only a 60m rope and quickdraws are required to repeat them. However visitors are cautioned as bolt placement is in some cases far from ideal. Use of good judgment in such cases is necessary to avoid decking.
The south facing orientation of the Mikri Varasova makes it ideal for winter climbing. Provided the skies are clear (not uncommon in Greece) the place is warm and pleasant to climb even in very low temperatures. On the other hand climbing during the summer months is nearly impossible as rocks are scorched by the sun.
Mikri Varasova is located near the village of Fyli alongside several other important Athenian crags like Alogopetra, Chasia cave, Acharneis, etc. The crag can be found 200m uphill of the trail to the Cave of Panas.
To reach Mikri Varasova exit Attiki Odos on Exit 6 (Ano Liosia - Fylis Ave) and 500m after the exit, reach fountain roundabout. Continue on the main road (opposite as you enter the roundabout) for about 3,5Km till you see a characteristic colorful church on your right hand. Pass the church and continue on the same road for another 500m until the main road split (point A on adjacent map). Turn right on this point (or keep on straight for Chasia Cave and Acharneis crags). Follow the road to the wide crossroad just after the terminal stop of bus A12 (point B on adjacent map). Turn right once (not twice as this will get you to the monastery of St. Kyprianos) and continue straight on narrow winding road for 1,6Km till you reach the end of the asphalt (point C on adjacent map). This is the point where the trail for the Cave of Panas begins. Either park here next to big green water tank or turn right and continue on bad dirt road for 200m to the parking of Mikri Varasova. The place is surrounded by beehives. The grey slab of the left sector is visible at 100m from the parking spot and can be reached by a clearly visible path (2min).
Climbing the route “Stalachtitis”.
Climbing the route “Travigmeni”.
Access to the field.