Karavi is a small, beautiful crag on the foothills of Mt Ymittos. Similarly to Daveli’s cave in Penteli, the crag owns its existence to the quarrymen of the ancient times. Long after ancients abandoned the place, Athenian climbers re-discovered the crag and scaled the marble deposits for an entirely different purpose. Evidence of the rock extraction methods (ancient chipping per se!) is still visible on some routes. Karavi (“Ship” in Greek) is the modern name given to the crag due to the characteristic arête which resembles a ship head coming out of the rock.
Despite the fact that the surrounding pine forests has been repeatedly ravaged by forest fires, the place still keeps its idyllic character mainly due to its prime location. On a clear day, visitors can enjoy wonderful views all over the Attica plateau from the coastline and the port of Piraeus, to the mountains of Parnitha, Aigaleo and Penteli.
The crag numbers more than 30 routes averaging 15m high and most of them bolted. The rock is solid grey limestone or re-crystallised marble of excellent quality. Climbing is surprisingly variable considering the size of the crag, offering a little bit of everything from vertical slabs and cracks to a few sustained overhangs and the classic dihedrals. The presence of marble also adds to the variety of the moves.
Despite the presence of bolts, climbing in Karavi requires a trad head. Bolt placement is frequently far from ideal and the placement of natural protection between bolts is suggested if not required in some cases. Grades also tend to be on the hard side, especially on the easier routes.
Better climbing season for Karavi is spring and autumn. Summer climbing is possible early in the morning when all the routes are in shade. Winter on the other hand is harsh on the place due to its north facing orientation and usually too wet and cold to climb.
Climbers need to keep their eyes open during the predator birds nesting period as the birds sometimes use the cracks for nesting. Needless to say that any activity shall be avoided near nests as the birds are very sensitive to disturbance.
For the access from Attiki Odos, follow the junction to Ymittos Ring Road just after exit 12. Alternatively enter Ymittos Ring Road from Katechaki avenue which starts at the Katechaki METRO station. Follow the Ymittos Ring Road for 2,5km and turn left on the second traffic light (to Saketa Military Camp). Reach the main gate of the camp and continue on dirt road that starts on the left side of the gate. You might be requested to show some form of ID at the gate of the military camp. 500m after the gate park at the small parking space of Koutala’s monastery. Continue by car or on foot if the bar is down following the winding dirt roads as shown on the map (20min walk from Monastery).
