The route “Botini - Spanoudi” (VI, 600m) was established in July 1968 by P. Botinis - A. Spanoudis. The line is located at the sector Rozos of Lazorema and the quality of the rock where it lies is excellent. It is a very serious route as it requires difficult moves on natural protections, as well as a run-out at the famous water-groove.
Approach to “Botini - Spanoudi” is possible via Lazorema gorge. The route begins from a deep gully-chimney which leads to a big woody and sloping ledge. Just above it, raises a vertical and frictionless slab (of 250m height) with a water-groove in the centre. The climbing on that slab begins from a dihedral-crack, at the point where the initials “VAT69” are written on the rock. A narrow ledge with firs leads to the frictionless and unprotected slab, where the target is the water-groove in the middle. You have to gain the initial overhang by a left-to-right detour in order to reach this water-groove, which is the crux of the route (VI, 20m). After the slab, difficulties are only found at certain spots, but the way to the top is too long (300m), that’s why the total time required for the climb of the whole route is at least 10hrs.
Useful gear for climbing “Botini - Spanoudi” would be a set of nuts, friends, some pitons and slings.
A. Theodoropoulos - Tr. Adamakopoulos realized the first free repetition of the route on 3/7/1985.
Some reports about the route can be found here.
