Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

Botini - Spanoudi

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route “Botini - Spanoudi” (V, 500m) was realized in 1968 by P. Botinis - A. Spanoudis.

The line starts from the base of a large pillar, about 100m to the left and a little higher than the “South wind”, with which it intersects at its 4th belay.

This route allows us, with relatively easy climbing, to reach the summit ridge, gaining a full experience of an old, classic, mountain route. Especially the second part of it, from the ledge and up, presents particular climbing interest, without difficulties in finding a route.

For the climb, we start easily from the base of the pillar (up to IV) and move towards the 4th belay of the “South wind”, which is located under an olive tree. From there we turn slightly to the right until we meet the ridge, which we will climb along its entire length (up to III), passing the 6th belay of "South wind" on the right, to finally reach the large sloping ledge of the crag, through which several routes lead to the top. In general, the first part of the route up to the ledge has many course options due to the easy terrain.

To continue, we walk along the ledge in an upward and left direction, aiming for a large dihedral - ramp, at the far left end of the ledge, which without any particular difficulties (V) will lead us to the exit from the crag.

At the ledge, if we want to skip the second part of the route for some reason, there are two possibilities of abandoning, one by walking up and to the right aiming for the summit ridge, from which, after meeting the well, we will return by descending the entire summit path, and another by rappelling from the “South wind” after approaching from the side (using a rope) its 6th belay, which is located at the top of the ridge.

For repeating the route, a full set of nuts, some cams and slings are required.

The return after completing the route is made by descending from the summit path.

Note: While climbing the first part of the route, an easy path is revealed for access to/from the ledge in case of emergency (abandonment or rescue). For this path, we start from the plateau at the base of the “Shining Path”, where on the far right there is an easy passage (II), which leads to the 4th belay of the “South wind” and from there, we continue a little to the right to the ridge, which we follow (III) and after passing the 6th belay of the “South wind” on the right, we come out to the ledge. This access route is not a hiking path because it requires some belay points during the movement, but it is the fastest we can follow to reach the ledge.

Old sketch by D. Korres.

Source: D. Mavropoulos
Photographs:
Translation: D. Mavropoulos
Editing: D. Mavropoulos
Published: 2026-01-25
Modified: 2026-01-25
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Panorama: W. Face
Geolocation: