Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

Classic ridge

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route “Classic ridge” (IV, 1200m) was realized in 1967 by M. Idosidis - G. Martzoukos - M. Kottaris.

This is one of the oldest routes in Varasova.

The Varasova massif, falling towards the sea in the south, is separated into two ridges, one western and one eastern, creating a descending valley between them. The route follows the entire length of the western ridge, starting from sea level and ending at the summit, covering almost 900m of altitude difference.

This is a route of low difficulty and great length, which in the past was considered suitable for preparing those who wanted to climb correspondingly long routes in the Alps.

To repeat the route, the necessary gear is a set of nuts for securing the most difficult passages, while along it there are some old pitons of dubious quality. For most of the ascent, due to the easy terrain, the climbers can move in parallel.

The attempt to climb such a long route requires experience in many parameters of the sport of traditional climbing, such as good reading of the terrain, avoiding dangerous terrain, moving quickly where possible, reducing backpack weight, avoiding dehydration or injury, and the ability to retreat in case of a problem.

Access to the base of the route can be done by boat or on foot following the climbing path, to the right of the training routes. Ascending the path, we reach the highest point of the ridge, which to the left (north) leads to the large ledge of the crag, while straight (east) it descends towards a downhill slope that forms an open cove. On the eastern side of the cove, there is the ridge, which we climb following the easiest possible path. Some climbers prefer not to descend to the cove and then climb the ridge, but from the ridge they continue in a northeasterly direction towards the ridge, thus leaving out approximately 1/3 of the route, but without reducing the altitude difference, since they have started from sea level anyway. However, the line of this variant is not known with precision, so the route finding ability is necessary.

For the return after completing the route, after passing through the well located a little lower than the summit in a clearing with trees, we follow the path that descends to Kryoneri (2hrs), to the west of the mountain. Alternatively, we can follow the path that descends to Ano Vasiliki (1hr), to the east of the mountain.

Source: D. Mavropoulos
Photographs:
Translation:
Editing: D. Mavropoulos
Published: 2025-12-04
Modified: 2026-01-25
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Panorama:
Geolocation: