The first ascent of the route “Corner” (VI-, 220m) was realized in 1979 by A. Bennet - D. Booth.
The line is located in the “Africana” section and starts between the “Black Sheep” and “Tourista” routes.
This route is one of the most classic of Varasova, offering climbing diversity and demanding good use of traditional gear, while it is mainly characterized by continuous dihedrals with small slabs and two roofs.
The first repetition of the route was done by D. Sotirakis - G. Kavallieratos.
The 1st pitch (40m) starts on easy rock to enter a dihedral (IV+), which follows up to a small slab with a negative, which is passed either from the dihedral on the right (VI-, original version), or from the left with a small traverse (V+, variant), to continue on a dihedral (V) to the belay (2 bolts with rings).
The 2nd pitch (50m) continues on the dihedral (V+) to a point where there is a water line on the left and some grass. The route continues right on the dihedral (V) to exit on a slab (IV) with large pads to the belay (2 bolts with rings).
The 3rd pitch (45m) continues on the dihedral (V) until 2-3m before the characteristic roof that is passed through the slab on its left (VI-). It continues on a ramp and then on a slab (VI-), up to a dihedral (V+), which is climbed up to the roof (VI-), which is passed from the left (VI), to enter an easy dihedral (V) up to the belay (2 bolts with rings).
The 4th pitch (30m) starts up and left on a slab (V) with a small crack (V+), where the “Black sheep” belay located a little further left can be used for safety, and after passing a large negative block (IV+) on the left, it makes a belay (2 bolts with rings).
The 5th pitch (35m) starts up and a little left to enter (IV+) on a slab with a small dihedral (V) on the left, which is climbed until it comes out on a broken field with a small vertical slab (V-), where the belay is above (2 bolts with rings).
The route does not have permanent intermediate bolts (except for 3 pitons on the first 2 pitches).
Necessary gear for repeating the route are a set of nuts, a set of friends (up to Camalot #3) and some straps.
The return can be done by using the belays of the route.
Sketch of the route.
Old sketch by D. Korres.