Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

Dihedral of Zacharanis - Xynos

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route “Dihedral of Zacharanis - Xynos” (VI-, 120m) was realized on 1962 by Th. Zacharanis - G. Xynos.

The line moves on a characteristic dihedral located in the area of “Africana”, to the right of the “Limpouros” route and to the right of the “Skoupa” route with which it has a common beginning. Although it seems to be an entry variant of “Skoupa”, it is actually not so, since it is earlier. In the past, however, it functioned as a variant of “Skoupa”, since after its completion one had to continue on “Skoupa” to get to the ledge, due to the lack of permanent belays. Now, however, after the addition of a belays to the neighboring “Limpouros”, the line is easily climbed as an independent one.

The 1st pitch (V+, 40m) starts straight on easy rocks to enter the dihedral, finally belaying on a tree and nuts on the right.

The 2nd pitch (VI-, 50m) starts to the left and on a slab, to then enter the dihedral, which follows until a loose section, which bypasses from the right to a slab and then to a ledge, to emerge from above on a ledge (1 piton). A small negative follows and continues on the dihedral until a ledge with a spike (sling). It continues on the dihedral above and to the spike below the vertical red wall, at the base of which it traverses right to enter, after a negative, the dihedral again, until the belay (2 hangers with a ring). In case there is a lot of friction in the ropes or there is not enough gear, this pitch can “break” in two, with an intermediate belay at the large spike at 30m.

To repeat the route, the necessary gear are 12 quickdraws as well as a series of nuts and friends (up to Camalot #3) and slings. On the route there are 5-6 old pitons and 2 slings, which are not very reliable.

The return is done with 2 rappels (30m and 45m) from the belays of the adjacent route “Limpouros” (from R3 to R2 and R2 to ground).

Source: G. Kagiaftakis
Photographs:
Translation: Routes.gr
Editing: G. Kagiaftakis
Published: 2012-12-06
Modified: 2026-01-22
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Panorama:
Geolocation: