The route “Dolce vita” (VI+, 200m) was completed and climbed on 9/6/2026 by G. Voutyropoulos - L. Skalvounos - M. Lyra.
The route was established with three visits (26/7/2026, 30/8/2026, 6/9/2026) by G. Voutyropoulos - L. Skalvounos, while M. Lyra also participated in the last and final one.
The line follows an almost direct course on the characteristic pillar of the main crag of Xerovouni and is the continuation of an earlier attempt by Petoit - Kavalieratos (September 1978), from which traces were found on the 1st pitch (2 pitons and a retreat belay).
The quality of the rock is mediocre with a few loose rocks and vegetation on most of the pitches. The pitches were equipped with several bolts, but there are run outs, while the relays are equipped with 2 bolts. Necessary gear for repeating the route is a set of nuts, a set of friends (Camalot #0.75 - #3), several slings with carabiners and 12 quickdraws.
The return after completing the route can be done either from the top, with a quick descent from the left as we look at the crag, or from the 5th relay with 4 rappels (bypassing R2).
The route is in the shade until 3pm, which maintains tolerable climbing conditions even on a hot summer day, with an unobstructed view to the Sporades and even beyond.
Sketch of the route.
