Into the blue

The route “Into the blue” (7b, 360m) was completed and climbed on 24/9/2024 by M. Turner - B. Lam - D. Pointon - J. Hadley - L. Kennedy.

The route starts 50m to the right of “Pilgrims of the vertical”, consists of 12 pitches, and was fully bolted using stainless steel resin glue-ins over 10 days. The sustained climbing provided by the quartz-rich limestone is punctuated features plentiful pockets and unravels in full view of the Aegean Sea.

P1 (6a+, 30m): Start off from the sea with belay 4m above water, pull off overhanging jugs to the right to gain the right trending line leading to the big grass belay ledge.

P2 (6b+, 50m): Step left on easy climbing until reaching the big cave leading to a rightward leaning crack. Climb past a big loose section and pull over the roof leading to a slab and an awkward cave belay.

P3 (6b+, 10m): Short-lived, powerful move up leading to a belay stance on a slab.

P4 (6c, 45m): Climb straight up the face with tiny crimps leading to a bouldery move to a belay on a small stance.

P5 (7b, 35m): Steep pocket climbing right off the belay lead to a big hollow flake, pull up steep crimps which lead to easier ground, belay on black slab.

R6 (6a+, 30m): Enjoyable slabby start leads to more vertical ground, few hidden jugs lead to grassy ledge on the right for belay.

R7 (6b+, 20m): Climb above the ledge and trending slightly left to reach the corner crack, Big moves to reach the steep top section traversing right. Big moves with good jugs lead to final move to belay ledge.

R8 (7a+, 35m): Steep wall with technical crimpy sequence, could be harder for the shorts.

R9 (5c, 30m): Lovely climbing up pockets, one engaging move to right leading to juggy holds.

R10 (6c, 30m): Start by going right until reaching steeper section, bridge and smear into a technical groove and find semi-hidden pockets to pull onto good jug below the roof section. Belay above the roof.

R11 (7a+, 30m): THE arete pitch. Step up via the corner to gain good holds on the cave features. Technical crux to establish onto the arete and follow the right-face of the arete until holds disappear. Reachy move back to the left of the arete and step across the corner to reach belay stance.

R12 (6c, 15m): Harder than it looks. Bridging through the steep corner leading to pleasant climbing to top out.

From there, following a series of cairns, a faint path will lead us to the summit, where the monastery is located.

To repeat the route, 16 quickdraws, a cheat-draw or clip-stick, and an 80m single, or 50m double ropes are required. To rappel the route, two 50m double ropes are mandatory, while spare carabiners are recommended to equip anchors on the descent.

The route is on the headwall below the Monastery of Kalamiotissa and is accessible both from above and below. From above, a series of cairns leading to the southwest and continuing for about 400m, make it possible to rappel into the start of the route. Alternatively, climbers can start at sea level (only if the weather is stable), although no rungs have been installed to aid disembarkation. The start of the route is 50m to the right of “Pilgrims of the vertical” below a left facing corner leading to the obvious terrace.

To return, after the completion of the route and the ascent to the summit, we follow a well-defined path heading northwest, which leads down to the base of the monolith, where the Zoodochos Pigi Monastery is located.