Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

One year after

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route “One year after” (VI, 230m) was realized in 1981 by Tr. Adamakopoulos - P. Matsouka - V. Chatzirvasanis.

The line is located at the left end of the “Africana” section and follows the left large dihedral, while the right dihedral is “Cellulose”.

For the 1st pitch (50m) we start on the right of a characteristic cave at the base of the dihedral and follow the dihedral (V) to a small ledge on the left. We climb for a few meters on a slab with pads (V+) above the ledge, to re-enter the dihedral (V) to the belay, where there is a U-piton, which can be reinforced with a medium nut or friend.

For the 2nd pitch (50m) we start straight above the belay and after passing (with care) a large broken flake, we move for a few meters on the left slab and then, in a right direction, we re-enter the dihedral (VI-). We follow the dihedral for a few meters, then we enter (to avoid the grass) the slab on the left (V) and then a crack to the belay, which can be secured with friends and nuts, in a horizontal crack, just before a large grassy field.

For the 3rd pitch (40m) we cross the grassy field from above, to enter a slab with pads and a characteristic oblique crack (V), at the end of which there is a small tree (V+). Then we move to the left and up a slab (VI-), to a small negative dihedral (VI) and then on an edge/slab (be careful of some loose blocks) to the belay, which can be secured with nuts on a comfortable ledge.

For the 4th pitch (50m) we start up and right to enter a slab (V). We continue on this slab (V+) and after passing under the two trees we enter a small dihedral on the right (V), to exit to a ledge. We climb the edge/slab (V+) from above and continue on a positive slab, to a small crack, where we traverse left, to belay on a tree above.

For the 5th pitch (40m) we follow an easy pitch up (III) and then right, to exit the crag (it can also be done with parallel movement).

Necessary gear for repeating the route are a full set of nuts and friends (up to Camalot #3), several slings and 14 quickdraws. There are no permanent belays, except for a cord that hugs the large flake above R1.

The return is done by following the red marks to the right and down, until we meet the “Africana” rappels.

Modern sketch of the route by G. Kagiaftakis.

Old sketch of the route by D. Korres.

Source: Anavasi i. 13, G. Kagiaftakis
Photographs:
Translation:
Editing: G. Kagiaftakis
Published: 2012-12-06
Modified: 2026-01-25
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Panorama:
Geolocation: