The first ascent of the route “Reverse extension” (VI+, 100m) was realized in July 2005 by Th. Kotoulas - D. Zarouleas.
The first repetition (with minor differences) was made on 7/6/2009 by M. Aftias - S. Pitsikalis.
The two rope companies, without knowing each other’s attempt, climbed the same line, giving slightly different descriptions and difficulties.
Th. Kotoulas - D. Zarouleas describe that they followed the characteristic dihedral, where after 40m they encountered two new pitons in the difficult passage of the 1st pitch, apparently from some previous attempt, making 2 pitches with a total extension of 100m and a maximum difficulty of VI+. The most difficult point is before the exit to the 2nd belay, where there is a chimney with a wedged stone and the passage of the stone gives a difficulty of VI+.
M. Aftias - S. Pitsikalis describe that they initially followed the slab to the left of the dihedral, but then entered it, while avoiding the wedged stone in the chimney with a left traverse. Their own attempt consisted of 3 pitches with a total length of 110m and a maximum difficulty of V+.
Because the first rope company, due to the pitons they encountered, doubted whether they had climbed the line for the first time, they did not give a name, so the route took the name given by the second rope company.
The detailed description of M. Aftias - S. Pitsikalis follows.
The line moves on the rocks a little lower than the “Alpina” and ends near its base. It was actually climbed by mistake, when M. Aftias - S. Pitsikalis wanted to climb “Alpina”, but they thought that the panorama they printed from routes.gr had been cut off and did not show the entire route. So they started it much lower than they should have, opening a new route.
On the 1st pitch (V+, 40m) we start climbing straight up the eastern (left) slab of an open dihedral. The difficulty is more or less constant (V+). After 45m we reach a grassy, wide and slightly sloping two-level ledge. The grass on the ledge looks like thick long hair and even offers itself as a grip! We make a belay by choosing the level of the ledge that suits us best. The belay can be made either on the slab to the left of the ledge, or on one of the large boulders that are on the ledge.
On the 2nd pitch (V+, 45m) we start by continuing straight on the ledge that gradually narrows and then there are two options: to follow the dihedral on the right or to climb the slab a little further to the left. The slab is probably a little easier (V+), but both options lead to a small ledge. Then we climb an easy slab (V-) and then we enter a dihedral (V), which then narrows quite a bit and becomes a chimney. At the top of the chimney there is a large wedged stone that leaves a small gap with the rock, but we cannot fit through the hole that is formed. In order not to move the wedged stone and endanger our rope partner below, we traverse 1.5m to the left towards the small roof of the exit. The roof is easier (V+) than it may initially seem, since it has very good grips and steps that help us get to the R2. From R2 we have a view of the Pyramida massif. The belay is done on a large boulder with a through hole, but there are many other possibilities.
On the 3rd pitch (III, 25m) we easily traverse diagonally left (III) on the rounded rocks, up to the slope that goes to Vathia Lakka on the left and descends steeply to Lazorema on the right.
Useful gear for repeating the route are a set of nuts, a set of friends, a hammer, pitons and many slings, short and long. The pitons are useful for the narrow cracks in very good quality rock. The rock is of such good quality that it takes a little searching to place the removable gear, but once they are in place they hold really well.
Any possible retreat can be done by rappelling from R1, either by leaving a stopper or friend, or with just a long sling passed around the boulders on the R1 ledge.
The first two pitches are generally in the shade all day.
To access from Vathia Lakka, we ascend towards “Alpina”, but traverse the grassy slope well below the base of the routes on the main crag. Then we will need to descend a few meters diagonally downwards with an easy descent, to a characteristic ledge, where the route begins. The ledge forms the base of the open dihedral of the first rope.
After completing the route, we can return to Vathia Lakka by following the access route in reverse. Alternatively, we can continue climbing to “Alpina” or one of the other routes of the Pyramida.
Sketch of the route by M. Aftias - S. Pitsikalis.