Olympos - Stefani - E. Face


Rock, Traditional


The first ascent of the route "Ahladi" (IV+, 170m) was realized on 25/07/1964 by E. Arvanitidis - F. Galinos and today it could be characterized as one of the classic routes of Stefani.

The 1st pitch moves on an easy but loose field, at first up and to the right and then up until the belay which is located on the wall to the left. The 2nd pitch continues on a big dihedral until it comes out on a slab, where the belay is set up. The 3rd pitch can be climbed by making a small traverse to the left and then up on a crack - dihedral. On the slab found to the right of this crack - dihedral there are two pitons. Though the vegetation makes it very difficult and dangerous to reach those two pitons, one can possibly use them, if wishes to do so, and then make the traverse to the left, toward the crack - dihedral, from a higher point, after having passed the pitons. Before the crack - dihedral finishes, a traverse must be made to the right toward a small ledge and from there a bit up until the belay. The 4th pitch at first moves on a slab upwards and to the right so as to follow a dihedral, found to the right of an overhanging slab, until a narrow ledge, and then it continues to the left, above the overhanging slab. While traversing on the ledge, the belay appears behind the rib. The 5th pitch follows an easy climbing field up to the ridge, where the belay is set with the use of natural protection. Alternatively, the 4th pitch can be climbed by following a harder variation, which is basically the continuance of the dihedral. This variation actually avoids the traverse and comes out on top of the belay.

The quality of the rock is good enough, except for some parts of the 3rd pitch and of the exit of the variation of the 4th pitch. The necessary equipment for this climb is a set of nuts and a few friends.

The first repetition of the route was realized on 26/07/1964 by S. Antypas - T. Nastos - T. Mpakopoulos, while the first solo on 27/07/1978 by D. Mpoundolas.

In order to return, one can descend from the gully of Stefani.

Source: Anevenontas i. 22, D. Mavropoulos
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Olympos
Location: Stefani
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27