Gkiona - Pyramida - N. Face


Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Apopiso" (VII+, 210m) was realized on 4/9/2004 by G. Voutyropoulos - S. Karampampas.

The line moves to the right of the route "An eheis ton Theo sou".

The first 60m follow an easy field with one short passage (IV) only. A bit higher there is a ledge, left to the dihedral, at the foot of which the belay is built by using nuts and friends.

The 1st pitch follows the right crack of the dihedral (V+) leading to the foot of the crack, where there is a sling for the belay to be built.

The 2nd pitch follows a crack-dihedral (VI+), equipped with a bolt in the middle. Just before the end of the dihedral, the pitch goes to the left, on a slab, where it meets with the belay of "Endymionas".

The 3rd pitch ascends up and to the right, behind a block, where there is a piton, and from there it follows a wall full of holes for about 3 meters, where a permanent bolt is located. Two meters further, there is a sling placed in a thread. A difficult traverse to the right (VII+) follows, with direction toward a ramp, on the foot of which there is a thread and a piton and at that point the belay is built.

The 4th pitch continues on the ramp, then goes to the right curving around a crack and finally straight up until the summit of the tower.

At the 1st belay, apart form the sling there is also a wedged nut. At the 3rd pitch, there are two wedged nuts above the bolt, while the traverse of this same pitch that follows after the thread with the sling, is also equipped with a wedged nut just before the 3rd belay.

Necessary gear for the ascent of this route would be a set of nuts, a set of friends and slings.

Return is possible only from the summit either with easy descent or by abseiling from "Endymionas".

Source: G. Voutyropoulos, G. Torelli, Anevenontas i. 29
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Gkiona
Location: Pyramida
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27