Olympos - Stefani - E. Face

Comici - Escher

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Comici - Escher" (IV-, 200m) was realized on 26/6/1934 by E. Comici - A. Escher.

This line is of great historical significance since not only it is the first registered climbing route in Greece but also it was opened up by the great climber from Trieste, Emilio Comici, together with his then mate, Signora Anna Escher. Today, it is one of the most classic routes at Stefani, with tens of repetitions being registered each year.

As regards the climb, the 1st pitch starts with an easy dihedral, then traverses to the right and finally goes up on a slab until the belay. The 2nd pitch moves on an easy slab, all along its length. The 3rd pitch begins on this slab, then traverses leftwards to a ledge and finally goes up on a dihedral up to the belay. The 4th pitch first goes up on a beautiful dihedral and then enters in another dihedral, a bit to the left, until the belay which is built on a ledge. The route ends with the 5th pitch, which leads to a big ledge, a bit under the summit. The belay is set on a big rock found to the left.

No serious danger is caused by the quality of the rock, which appears to be good enough. In case the existing pitons are not used for the climb, the necessary equipment is limited to a set of nuts and a few friends. If then again one chooses to use the existing pitons, even 4 quickdraws are enough.

The first winter climb of this route was realized on 26/12/1975 by D. Bountolas - E. Tosidis.

In order to return, one must descend from the gully of Stefani.

Source: D. Mavropoulos
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Olympos
Location: Stefani
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2018-03-16