Vardousia - Skorda Pitimalikou - NW. Face


Mixed, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "ET" (II AD+ M1+, 250m) was realized in 1985 by D. Sotirakis - A. Theodoropoulos.

It is actually one of the most popular lines of the crag.

The route begins with a quite narrow and vertical couloir with rocks on its left side (up to 60°). In case the snow is not enough, the pitch is mixed and the difficulty up to M2. One can also start from the first pitch of the route "Tyhaia", which may not be particularly hard (65°, 30m), but its difficulty is continuous. After that, follows a very easy field (30°) until the base of the vertical couloir, where the belay station is set, on the rocks to the left. Next, the route goes straight up, with angle up to 60°, for about 35m and the belay is built on the rocks. The next pitch and also the last one, moves on a quite easy snow field (up to 55°) and finally leads to the end of the route. The above mentioned information is applicable if the route is found in good snow conditions. In the opposite case, the first pitches of the routes "ET" and "Tyhaia" become mixed and thus much more challenging, which could be a trouble for untrained climbers.

The necessary equipment for the repetition of this climb comprises a set of nuts, slings and optionally 1 - 2 pitons.

Approaching the route takes only 30min from EOOA's refuge, while the return involves following the ridge, right after the exit of the route, to the left and down towards the first open space, which is named Koprissies. As soon as the left slope becomes flat, get down to the road that goes from Profitis Ilias to Stavros, at the point where the traverse begins, before the winter marks. Of course, there is a shorter way, which involves following the ridge, after exiting the route, until the passage where down-climbing is possible through an easy gully that leads to the sheepcote. However, it is sometimes even impossible to locate this passage, especially if the visibility is limited.

[1] "ET", [2] Variation "Tyhaia"

Source: Anevenontas i. 21
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Area: Vardousia
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27