Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

Ellinomania

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Ellinomania" (VII-, 240m) was realized on 8/5/2005 by D. Aivazidis - D. Mavropoulos.

The line starts 2m to the right of "Fyssoura Brown" and it follows natural lines, mainly water grooves and cracks, until the ledge.

The 1st pitch in the beginning follows a dihedral with a wide crack which is shaped by the small pillar and the main wall; then it enters into a three water grooves system, it follows them for a while and it continues with a traverse to the right, until the belay.

The 2nd pitch goes up and slightly to the right, enters into a small water groove and goes out to the left on a slab. From this slab, the pitch moves upwards until it meets a rope sling threaded through a hole. It would be good to set the belay at this point, instead of the normal R2, because serious rope drag will be produced a few meters further up, unless of course one single rope has been clipped to the previous gears. After the rope sling part, the pitch continues with an easy dihedral to the right, until a ledge found on the top of a small pillar. From there, a traverse has to be made to the left, until the belay, which is set on a comfortable ledge.

The 3rd pitch follows water grooves until the belay which is to the right, above a small step.

The 4th pitch goes slantwise to the left and then straight up, passes a small dihedral, which is also the hardest passage of the route and then it follows a bolt protected crack until the belay.

The 5th pitch goes straight up for a few meters and then it continues under an overhang with easy traverse to the right. Next, it goes up on a vertical wall with exit to the right and finally reaches the belay with an easy traverse to the right. One must be particularly careful with the big unstable rocks right on top of the 3rd bolt.

The 6th pitch starts with a right traverse, then it goes up a dihedral just for a bit and then it follows the ridge which is to the right of the dihedral. Next, it follows a crack which leads under a small roof; it surpasses the roof and finally enters into a dihedral which leads to the belay.

The 7th pitch goes straight up; it meets a ledge at about 20m and it continues straight up again until the belay.

All along the route the quality of the rock is excellent. Nevertheless, one must be careful with the dangers that lurk between R4 and R5 but which at least are obvious. More specifically, to the right of R4 there is a huge rock which has been detached and could easily roll down causing serious accident. The 5th pitch requires great caution, especially at the point of the right exit from the wall. There, right on top of the 3rd bolt, there are big unstable rocks, ready to hit any climber who will try to use them as a handhold. That's why the wall exit traverse has to be made quite lower, without using these rocks. R5 is also a dangerous point since the belay station is a very small ledge formed by a rock that seems to be detached as well, so one should be really careful at that point and actually it would be better if this rock didn't have to support two climbers at the same time.

The necessary equipment for this climb consists of a set of nuts and a couple of medium friends.

All belays are equipped with double rings, placed on one 12mm bolt and one 10mm bolt and they are all suitable for escape or return abseiling. Return abseiling, using 50m ropes, is possible from R7, R6, R5, R3, R2 and R1 (6 abseils). Alternatively, it is possible to return by abseiling from the routes "Afrikana" and "Hristoforos Agnoglou", using the last belay of "Afrikana" that is placed under the tree, on the left end of the ledge which we meet in the middle of the 7th pitch. In order to get from R7 down to that point, a 20m abseil is required. Moreover, an easy right traverse (4m) will take you from R7 to the big ledge, from where the marked footpath leads down to the abseil of "Pyrgos" or straight (eastwards) to the climbing footpath that leads down to the easy climbing field.

The first repetition of the route was realized on 16/10/2005 by V. Zekis - E. Zeki.

Source: D. Mavropoulos, Korfes i. 175
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27