Gkiona - Pyramida - N. Face


Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Endymionas" (VII A1, 210m) was realized on 3/9/2000, by S. Karampampas - K. Tsoukleidis. The opening up of the route had already started one year earlier, by S. Karampampas - G. Athanasiou, who had climbed the first two pitches. The final attempt was made by S. Karampampas - K. Tsoukleidis who had to dedicate three weekends in order to finish the line. They even had to spend the night there (bivouac), using a portaledge.

The route was named after Endymionas, who, according to the mythology, was the lover of the Moon. Gkiona was their favourite meeting place.

The first pitch begins with a slightly overhanging dihedral with a narrow crack and continues with a loose rock quality and dangerous traverse without possibility of serious natural protection; therefore, it would be wise to carry a hammer and some pitons, but just for this part of the route. The pitch finally leads to R1. The second pitch is an introduction to the ratings of the last pitches of the route. The third pitch requires caution because, as of the middle of the pitch, the climber will have to forget the "comfort" of the easy ramp and climb vertically towards a crack-dihedral, from where, right after coming out of it, a traverse to the right leads to R3. The fourth pitch offers beautiful and comfortable climbing, with very good natural protection on threads. The fifth pitch is just the way to the next belay station, allowing relaxing a little bit before moving on to the next rough meters of the route. The sixth pitch is hostile to anyone who tries to climb it. It is a difficult pitch, even when it comes to its direct aid parts, since the protections had been placed by tall guys and the bolts are far away from each other, while the belay is kind of hanging without leaving any possibilities for resting before moving to the last pitch. Finally, the seventh pitch is over compensative as it offers beautiful climbing along the water groove.

It is worth mentioning that the elements of protection of the 7th pitch and the last two pros of the 6th pitch were the only that were placed top-rope.

Useful gear for climbing the route is a full set of nuts and friends, as well as a number of rope and tape slings which can be placed on numerous threads found along the 4th pitch.

There are two options for returning by abseiling. The first one is to abseil back down the route, which requires 4 abseils (R7-20m, R6-50m, R4-50m, R3-50m). Be careful when abseiling from R6 toward R4 because 50m ropes terminate. From R3 make one abseil and at about 40m further down, find a small ledge. Take a right-to-left (facing the wall) detour so as to avoid it and then abseil down for about 10m more, until you have reached another big ledge - terrace. From that point downclimb an easy ramp leftwards for 6m, until the base of the route. If again you take a left-to-right detour round the small ledge, then the terrace is marginally reached and 50m ropes terminate. The second option is to downclimb leftwards from the end of the route to the last belay of "Himikon" (it is marked with green colour). From that point, make 4 abseils (on marked belays) until the foot of the mountain face.

The first repetition of "Endymionas" was realized by L. Giannakoulis - E. Moshovits - C. Mpelogiannis on the same day that the route was opened up. On the next day, 4/9/2000, the brothers G. and N. Voutyropoulos climbed the route, and so realized the second repetition of "Endymionas".

The first free repetition was realized on 16/7/2011 by A. Thanopoulos with K. Kollyrou.

The route

D. Mavropoulos in 4th pitch

Source: Anevenontas i. 11, D. Mavropoulos, A. Thanopoulos
Photographs: D. Aivazidis
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Gkiona
Location: Pyramida
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-08-24