Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

Foteino fonopati

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Foteino monopati" (VIII, 600m) was realized on 24/5/1996 by G. Voutyropoulos - Th. Michailidis - A. Theodoropoulos.

It is an atmospheric route, which is characterized by continuous difficulty and good protection and which moves on a Varasova's big grey wall, of very good rock quality, far away from the crowded beach.

The route consists of two parts. The first one, 250m high, is technically more difficult, while the second one, 300m high, is rather the nicest part of the route. The pitches are well protected by bolts, even thought some of them require use of natural protection; therefore, the necessary equipment for the climb comprise a set of nuts and a set of friends. All belays are equipped, allowing quick promotion and fast return as well.

Approach involves 30 minutes walking along the footpath that begins from Kryoneri and leads to the top. The route starts exactly under the big grey wall with the characteristic white mark in the center.

The beginning of the route is on a slab, where a sling is hanged on the left side of a wall, next to a grassy dihedral.

The 1st pitch starts on a slab and 10m further up there is the first difficult passage (VII). The bolt is placed above the passage, which means that the move has to be taken first and then clip the quickdraw (this scene is repeated with other passages along the route as well). The belay is at 45m. The 2nd pitch follows a crack (V+) where nuts can be securely placed. At the end, the pitch moves to the right on a leaning slab with big hand holes and it directs toward a tree. The belay is set under this tree, at 35m. The 3rd pitch is short (15m) involving an overhanging passage (VI-). The 4th pitch moves slightly to the left and then straight up on a slab (VII-). The belay is built at 25m from the overhangs. The 3rd and the 4th pitch can be united. The 5th pitch follows an exposed traverse under the overhangs, with direction to the left, toward the characteristic white patch. Afterwards, it follows this white patch straight up on a crack (V+) and finally reaches a slab (VII+), right on top of the white patch. The belay is set at 40m. The 6th pitch is characterized by the most continuous difficulty (VIII). It generally follows the slabs, but requires extra caution above the overhang, where the elements of protection are not so obvious due to the vegetation. This pitch does not move straight up from the belay, but slightly left or right. The last 10m require placing also a few nuts. The belay is set at 45m. The 7th pitch is the last one of the 1st part of the route and it is also the longest one. One must be careful with the ropes so as minimize friction. The pitch starts with a traverse slightly to the right and it surpasses the overhang quite easily. A slab follows, involving a passage VI+. The belay is set at the exit of the 1st part of the route, at 50m.

From this point, start walking, up and slightly to the right, towards the big sloping amphitheatric wall, which actually belongs to the 2nd part of the route. At the base of this wall there is a bolt with a sling, where the belay is set.

The 9th pitch is relatively easy, involving a passage IV. This pitch passes by two characteristic trees and the belay is set at 45m. The 10th pitch is protected by three bolts and it moves on a leaning slab for 30m, with difficulty V-. The belay is set at 50m. The 11th pitch starts to the right, on a dihedral (IV), at the end of which it gets on a slab for about 5m. At the end of this slab there is a wedged rope sling. At this point nuts can be securely placed, while the pitch begins to traverse to the left and slightly downwards for about 7m. The belay is at 45m and caution is required so as to avoid rope frictions. The 12th pitch is quite short and it follows the slab that is right over, in order to lead to the belay, at 25m. The 13th pitch needs quite a search for its 3 bolts to be located. It starts slightly to the right and afterwards it moves between the plants, with a passage V+. It is the "jungle" pitch. The belay is at 40m. The 14th pitch traverses to the right, on a ramp, for 25m till it finally meets the belay. The 15th pitch follows the black line on the slab, which is exactly above the belay. It is a well protected pitch involving some very nice moves (VII). The belay is set at 40m. The 16th pitch continues straight up on a slab - crack, at the end of which it follows a traverse (VII+) to the left. After the passage, the belay is set at 25m. The 17th pitch is the most beautiful pitch of the route, combining nice climbing and a great filling of the void right beneath. It follows the characteristic crack above the belay and after passing the first and only bolt, it can be protected by nuts and friends (1,5 to 3,5) for the rest 35m. The difficulty of this pitch is continuous (VI). The belay is set at the exit of the 2nd part of the route, at 40m.

There are three possible ways to return. The first one is the footpath that leads down to Kryoneri and passes from the base of the route. The second one is the footpath that leads down to Vasiliki. The third way is to descend by making 14 abseils down the same route. The easiest and fastest way to return is the footpath to Vasiliki, especially in case it is already getting dark, but keep in mind that this solution requires transportation planning for the return back to Kryoneri.

The upper part of the route

The lower part of the route

Source: Anevenontas i. 19
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27