Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face


Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Gonia" (VI-, 220m) was realized in 1979 by A. Bennet - D. Booth.

This line is one of the most classic of Varasova, offering climbing diversity and demanding good use of traditional pros. The route is mainly characterized by continuous dihedrals with small slabs and two roofs.

The 1st pitch starts with an easy dihedral (IV+ / V) for about 30m. At the end of this dihedral, below a ledge, there are pitons with slings which comprise the belay (hanging and uncomfortable), but there is also the possibility to build the belay with natural pros on the next ledge.

The 2nd pitch continues on the dihedral with constant difficulty at V for 30m. At the end, there is a piton, which must be amplified by natural pros so as to build the 2nd belay.

The 3rd pitch (35m) starts with a dihedral (V) that leads to an overhanging passage (VI-). After this passage, the belay is set on an old piton which too must be amplified with nuts.

The 4th pitch is the nicest but also the most challenging of the route. This one also starts with a dihedral (V+) that comes to a big roof with crack. The roof is climbed by the left (VI) and right after the belay is set on natural pros.

The 5th pitch is easy but very aesthetic, offering some very nice view. It moves on an easy slab. A bit to the left is the last belay of "Mavro provato", which offers the possibility of returning to the base of the route with 4 abseils. Otherwise, the route goes straight and slightly to the right; 30m further up the belay is set on natural pros.

The 6th pitch (30m) is basically a leaning slab (IV) which leads to the upper terrace.

In order to repeat this climb, a set of nuts, a few small friends and slings are required.

Return using the abseils of the crag, either from "Afrikana" or from "Pyrgos".

Source: Anevenontas i. 23
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-12-01