Gkiona - Pyramida - N. Face

Hamili ptisi

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Hamili ptisi" (VII-, 285m) was realized on 3/6/2000 by K. Kazdaglis - D. Mavropoulos - D. Aivazidis, and it is located between the routes "Blotti" and "Himaira".

The 1st pitch of the route follows a ramp that leads to a ledge with a small cave, to the left of which begins a dihedral that leads to a big and grassy terrace. The first belay is built at the end of this dihedral.

The 2nd pitch requires just walking and easy climbing on the grassy terrace, on the left side of which there is a characteristic dihedral - chimney. At the base of the dihedral, on its left side, there is a piton for the belay. To the left and a little bit lower, under R2, begins a chimney which may probably mislead you. The piton of R2 is placed a little bit higher up and to the right of the base of the chimney, where a small ledge is found.

The 3rd pitch offers some very nice dihedral and chimney moves. This pitch is also the crux of the route, as its main characteristics are natural protection and continuous difficulty, varying from V+ to VII- at the overhanging exit, where a wedged nut is found. Right after coming out of the dihedral, there is a very small ledge with a spike on witch the belay is easily built.

Three easy pitches follow until the point where you can begin descending from Pyramida.

The route consists of 6 pitches of 285m total length and 200m elevation change, while 4hours was the total time needed for its first ascent.

In order to repeat the route, a set of nuts, a set of friends and slings are necessary.

On 28/9/2003, D. Titopoulos - V. Koltsida were the first to repeat the route while, right behind them, followed S. Moraitinis - N. Mprokos - N. Kalaitzakis.

Source: D. Mavropoulos, Korfes i. 147
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Gkiona
Location: Pyramida
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-12-02