Pateras - Kantili

Kalo taxidi

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Kalo taxidi" (V+, 75m) was realized on 10/5/2009 by G. Kagiaftakis - V. Soufleros - S. Soufleros.

M. Fountoulakis - A. Tsesmetzoglou were the first to repeat this route on 10/6/2009.

The line moves on a very characteristic needle, to the left and lower than the route "Hurricane" and is in a 5min distance from the road.

The 1st pitch (35m) starts with scrambling, then passes a tree (4m) and enters a dihedral (V+) up until the belay station (piton and bolt).

The 2nd pitch (30m) continues in the crack-dihedral (V/V+) above, until the ledge (6m), where we go to the right to enter into a characteristic dihedral (V/V+). At the end of this dihedral (V, 15m) we go to the left on a small ledge and climb the small dihedral (V-, 3m) just above (careful with the crumbling block at the base of the dihedral). The belay is set just after the ledge, above the bushes (bolt).

The 3rd pitch (10m) starts straight above the belay, on a slab (V), which, however, can be protected after its first 3m and then goes on until the top of the pillar, where the belay is set (sling, bolt).

The 2nd and the 3rd pitches can also be climbed as one pitch (40m).

The route takes sufficient elements of protection. In order to climb it, a set of nuts and friends (up to Camalot #2) are required. The quality of the rock is very good and the loose parts very few but visible.

Return is possible by either two abseils (R3, R1) or just one abseil from R3 (50m) down to the left or the right side of the pillar and from there one more abseil (30m) from the tree (a sling is left on the tree to the left side of the pillar).

The route can be climbed at all seasons except for the cold winter days and the very warm summer days (above 28° C), as the consecutive dihedrals provide shadow during the largest part of the day.

"Kalo taxidi" (left) and "Lithovolismos" (right)

Source: G. Kagiaftakis
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: G. Kagiaftakis
Area: Pateras
Location: Kantili
Published: 2009-05-12
Modified: 2011-05-27