Olympos - Zilnia - S. Face

Kopsi ton aeton

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Kopsi ton aeton" (VII-, 220m) was realized on 13/4/1969 by G. Pantoulas - D. Kinatidis. The first repetition of the route was realized on 27/4/1969 by O. Ioannidis - A. Mattheou, while D. Bountolas was the first to repeat the route solo on 30/9/1979.

The pillar, on which the route was opened up, has been an action field where many climbers realized several variations. Most of these variations are mentioned in the guidebooks as independent routes; but since "Kopsi ton aeton" was the first route on that pillar, all the rest that join it, so as to have a common exit, should be considered as variations.

The variation "Tarantoula" (VI-, 120m) was opened up on 31/8/1980 by T. Adamakopoulos - P. Matsouka, who followed for the first pitches the big dihedral on the right side of the ridge. It is the most interesting of all the variations of the route "Kopsi ton aeton". The first repetition of "Tarantoula" was realized on 9/5/1982 by D. Bountolas - H. Delimpaltas - V. Hatzirvasanis.

The variation "Megali kompina ton aeton" (V+, 120m) was opened up on 26/6/1982 by T. Adamakopoulos - V. Hatzirvasanis - P. Matsouka on the left side of the pillar and it follows its own line until it meets with the route "Kopsi ton aeton", under the overhangs. At the same area the variation "Piso porta" (V+) was opened up on 26/9/1982 by T. Adamakopoulos - V. Hatzirvasanis, while the variation "Afroditi" (V+, 135m) was realized on 24/4/1983 by D. Bountolas - M. Arzoglou.

The combination of "Tarantoula" - "Kopsi ton aeton", the way it is climbed today by the majority of the climbers, is one of the most beautiful and popular routes of the field.

The combination of "Tarantoula" - "Kopsi ton aeton"

[1] "Kopsi ton aeton", [2] "Tarantoula", [3] "Ioannidi - Eleftheriadi"

[1] "Kopsi ton aeton", [3] "Ioannidi - Eleftheriadi", [4] "Piso porta", [5] "Afroditi"

Source: Anevenontas i. 23, D. Bountolas - Climbing guidebook of Zilnia, D. Mavropoulos
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Olympos
Location: Zilnia
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27