Tymfi - Astraka - NE. Face

Kopsi ton Triestinon

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Kopsi ton Triestinon" (VI+, 550m) was realized in 1965 by V. Zecchini - S. Dalla Porta Xidias.

The first repetition of the route was realized by D. Korres - D. Sotirakis in August 1981, while D. Kallos - V. Galanis were the first to climb this route under winter conditions, in January 1993.

The line starts to the left of a big spike and generally moves on the right side of "Megalo shisma" and "Epos tou haous". The quality of the rock is mediocre at first, for the first few pitches, but then, pitch by pitch, it gets worse. The route could be considered as classic; however, it requires self control, at least at the loose rock parts, climbing at high speed and route finding skills.

In order to repeat this climb, a set of nuts and a set of friends are required. Some of the belays are equipped with pitons, while some others are not.

The approach to the route requires only 15min walking from the refuge, with south direction. There are two ways to return from the exit of the route. The first way involves ascending up to the top and from there descending down the big gully of the NW. Face which is across the refuge and constitutes the most common way of ascent to the top. The ascent to the top follows an easy gully (III) that begins from the turfy terrace. The second way involves a horizontal traverse of the crag to the right, following an indistinct foot path along the turfy terrace. This traverse is recommended for the return as it is easy, barely exposed (without this meaning that it does not require carefulness) and it leads in 15min to the big gully from where the descent to the refuge takes 20min. This way was used for the first time by D. Bountolas, who also marked it with cairns and today it is used as a return way from many other neighboring routes.

The upper part of the route

The lower part of the route

Source: G. Voutyropoulos, EOOS - Climbing guidebook of Astraka
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Tymfi
Location: Astraka
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27