Olympos - Skolio - N. Face

Lefki antanaklasi

Mixed, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Lefki antanaklasi" (IV 3+ M2 Ao, 600m) was realized on 3/3/2002 by S. Stamatiou - Th. Hatzisyrlis, who first attempted this climb in April 2000. The route was opened up in 7hrs, while the snow - ice conditions were very good.

All about this route is the way it starts, and to be more exact, the icefall on the slab, before entering in the gully. Entering in the main body of the icefall requires artificial climbing on 5 bolts, which are already placed. After a run-out (8m) on good vertical ice, the belay appears, on the right. Finally, the gully, although it does not appear to be very difficult as to the technique, it does however require caution as to the protection.

The necessary equipment for this climb is 4 pitons, 2 pickets, 2 ice bolts and 4 friends No 0,5 - 2.

In order to approach the route, one should get to Kazania. The options for this are the following: either from Mouson's plateau, from where the descent to Kazania takes 90min, or by following the gully of Xerolaki toward Petra - Kazania, which usually takes about 5hrs; it depends on the snowfall and the quality of the snow.

In order to return to the refuges of Mouson's plateau, one should pass from Skala, ascent to Mytikas and finally descent from the gully. Returning to the refuges of Xerolaki on the other hand, involves following the ridge of Skolio and then back to Kazania (above the caves of Xerolaki) until the road (2hrs). At the difficult part of the ridge, there are two rows of iron steps and some wire ropes placed for protection.

Source: Anevenontas i. 17
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Olympos
Location: Skolio
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27