Tymfi - Astraka - NE. Face

Ligo pio prin, ligo meta kai ligo argotera

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of "Ligo pio prin, ligo meta kai ligo argotera" (VI+ A1, 310m) was realized on 17/8/2006 by D. Mpakalis - N. Ntouros.

The first attempt on this line was made in 1998 by D. Mpakalis - G. Konstantakopoulos, to whom it did not take long to realize that only the first part of the route that they were climbing was actually a first ascent, when, at the second part of the route, above the big ledge, they discovered a piton (at R5) and so had no doubt that they had unintentionally repeated the ascent of the upper part of an older route, "Ligo prin". A few years after, in 2005, G. Potamousis - G. Rokas, believing that they were climbing "Ligo prin", they actually climbed the first part of the route "Ligo pio prin, ligo meta kai ligo argotera"; in fact, they free climbed the first pitch (VI+) and also made a direct variation (VI+) at the second one. The story of this route is even more confusing regarding its second part. G. Potamousis - G. Rokas, started climbing "Ligo prin", but they left it at some point and probably entered the 6th pitch of the route "Ligo pio prin, ligo meta kai ligo argotera". The exact location of this point is not clear, given that the description and rating (VII/VII+) provided by the climbers does not match with the 5th pitch. As a result, the line of this variation, as shown in the drawing of the route, is given with reservation. The last part of the story took place in 2006, when D. Mpakalis - N. Ntouros climbed a complete, characteristic and independent line on the upper part of the route.

The necessary equipment for this ascent consists of 2 x 60m ropes, a set of nuts, friends, slings and some pitons for certain belays. The aid passages of the 6th pitch require the use of friends and one piton.

The return is the same as for "Kopsi ton Triestinon".

Source: D. Mpakalis
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Tymfi
Location: Astraka
Published: 2007-06-21
Modified: 2011-05-27