Tymfi - Astraka - NE. Face

Louki tis Dimokratias

Mixed, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Louki tis Dimokratias" (III 2, 400m) was realized on 24/12/1974 by D. Korres - D. Haitoglou - M. Annousas - K. Geka in 11 hours. Although the route was then considered to be a very important ascent, today it is considered as a classical one, counting several ascents.

It is about a gully which is narrow and steep (50°) at the beginning, with nuts-friendly vertical walls. After an elevation of 150m the couloir ends, as it is blocked by rocks, whilst of the route is not obvious thereafter. The easier way out is possibly by a short traverse to the left and then by climbing a small edge (65°, 5m). After passing the edge, the angle eases (40°), the couloir widens, and the refuge appears. Some climber parties stop the ascent of the route at that point, since exit is possible by traversing to the right. The couloir goes on for another 100m. After that, it naturally continues to the left, but it is much prettier (and somewhat more difficult) to continue to the right, in the direction of the summit. There, angle increases (50°) reaching the final mound of rocks, about 100m below the summit. A small, narrow couloir (55°, 15m) between the rocks leads to the last slope (45°) and from there finally to the top.

The gully is usually found in good conditions from the beginning of January until late in the spring (in combination with a cold night). Generally, it is safe, but during the warm days or when the mountain is too loaded by snow, there is great danger of avalanches.

The gear required for climbing the route consists of a selection of nuts and optionally a pair of pickets.

The first repetition of the climb is unknown.

Source: Anevenontas i. 4
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Tymfi
Location: Astraka
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27