Tymfi - Astraka - NE. Face

Louki tis Protomagias

Mixed, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Louki tis Protomagias" (III 3, 350m) was realized on 2/5/1987 by D. Karagiannis - M. Vasileiou. The line is located between the routes "Ouranio toxo" and "Antypa - Delagrammatica" and follows a big gully that leads to six rock towers, between which narrow gullies are formed, passing through the 2nd and the 3rd tower, and there it ends.

All the difficulties of the route are found in the last 150m, the first 80m of which present an inclination of 55° - 60°, while the next 10m an inclination of 80°. Finally, the inclination of the last 40m is about 60° - 65°.

Often, a big, dangerous cornice is formed on the ridge, and the solution appears to be a walk off arête on the right side.

The useful gear for the ascent of the route consists of a selection of nuts, ice screws and pickets.

This route, just like the rest of the ice climbs of the same mountain face, is usually found in good conditions from the beginning of Mars until the end of April.

On 24/3/1997, D. Mpourazanis - S. Karampampas realized possibly the first repetition of the climb and came across two old pitons.

Source: Vouna i. 21, Korfes i. 125
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Tymfi
Location: Astraka
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2018-05-09