Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

Magemeno pigadi

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Magemeno Pigadi" (VII+, 220m) was realized on 10/12/2000 by E. Moshovits - K. Tsoukleidis.

The line follows a characteristic system of dihedrals and slabs on the left side of the upper part of "Rubicon". Even though its natural entrance is a ramp on the left side, the dense vegetation above the ramp leaves no other choice but to begin from the water groove. The slabs that follow above the water groove eventually lead to the successive dihedrals system. The quality of the rock varies from excellent to doubtful.

The route starts at the ledge from which begins the upper part of "Rubicon". The most logical approach to this ledge is via the ridge of the first part of "Rubicon" (III, 150m). Once you get on the ledge, the route is on the left side and it actually begins above the wide ramp that leads to a brown fissure - water groove.

In order to repeat the route, a set of nuts and a set of friends are required.

The approach from the beach to the base of the ridge of "Rubicon" takes 45min via the west footpath that leads to the top.

There are three ways to return after the end of the climb. The first one involves 5min walking on the ridge until the well with the oaks, from where the marked footpath leads from the east face of the mountain to the road that goes to Ano Vasiliki. This choice is supposed to be easier, but requires transportation for the return back to Kryoneri. The second way is again 5min walk on the ridge until the well with the oaks, from where another footpath leads in 2h from the west face of the mountain to Kryoneri, by passing from the starting point at the foot of the ridge of "Rubicon". The third way is by abseiling. At first, abseil down to the ledge by using the belays of the route. After the ledge, abseils involve using the belays of the lower part of "Foteino Monopati", down to its base, which is lower than the point where the ridge of "Rubicon" starts. The same thing of course is possible by using the belays of "Taxidi ton Argonafton" or of "Notios anemos". Abseiling however requires good knowledge of the routes of the field and especially of the part where these routes have exit on the ledge.

Source: Anevenontas i. 12
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27