Olympos - Stefani - W. Face


Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Mati" (V+, 135m) was realized by unknown climbers.

It is one of the most classic routes at Stefani. Besides, it is as close to the refuges as no other route, which means that it offers the shortest approach possible. This route was named after the huge thread of the 3rd pitch (Mati = Eye), which is visible from a long distance.

The 1st pitch starts a few meters to the right of the northern ridge. At first, it enters in a dihedral (IV) and then it moves on an easy field and finally traverses to the right until a ledge, where the belay is found. The 2nd pitch goes up a little and then enters in a dihedral (V-) which leads to a big ledge. It then descends a bit with direction to the right and finally gets to the belay which is found at the edge of the big ledge. The 3rd pitch goes up on the rock to the right and enters in an open dihedral (V) and then it continues on a beautiful and solid crack-dihedral (V+) which leads to the belay, inside the huge thread. The 4th pitch moves on the other side of the big thread. At first, it goes up on an easy gully (III - IV) and then it continues to the right, on a slab (III), until the ridge, where the belay is found.

The necessary equipment for this climb is a set of nuts, some medium and big friends and slings.

Return is possible by making two abseils from the NE. Face of Stefani that looks towards the refuges. The first abseil starts from R4 and goes down slantwise to the right until the belay, which is quite hidden. The second abseil is of a 50m distance but, as it does not reach the ground, downclimbing is required (III, 6m). It should be mentioned though, that climbing a route on Stefani worth going all the way up, which means another 150m of easy climbing (II - III) on the ridge, until the summit. From there, one can return by descending from the gully of Stefani.

Source: Anevenontas i. 27
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Olympos
Location: Stefani
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27