Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

Mavro provato

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Mavro provato" (VII-, 150m) was realized on 27/4/2002 by G. Voutyropoulos - L. Mandrou.

The line moves between the routes "Fanatic" and "Gonia".

The most difficult passage of the route, at the 2nd pitch, was initially rated at VII-, but G. Voutyropoulos, climbing the route again in 2004, rated it at VI. Moreover, the 3rd belay is found quite higher than shown in the drawing, while the 4th pitch goes straight up and a bit to the left and then slightly to the right (before the belay).

The route is well protected by 11 permanent pros and the rack required for its repetition consists of nuts, small and medium friends or hexentrics and slings.

Return is possible by abseiling from the 4th belay; otherwise, returning from the ridge requires using the belays of "Pyrgos".

Source: G. Voutyropoulos
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2017-11-28