Vardousia - Skorda Pitimalikou - NW. Face

Megali korniza

Mixed, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Megali korniza" (III 3+ M3+, 140m) was realized on 7/4/1999 by K. Tsoulkas - A. Asimakopoulos - D. Gerontakis.

The 1st pitch (30m) follows a slab that presents difficulty up to 85° V- and it is protected with one piton just before the hard passage. The belay is set to the left, on the rocks before the entrance to the ramp. The 2nd pitch (45m) follows the ramp, which presents a difficulty up to 65° and the belay is set on the base of the rocks under the last pitch of the route "Apelpisia". The 3rd pitch (30m) is a right traverse on snow-ice and its difficulty may come up to 55°, while the belay is set on the rocks to the left. The 4th pitch (35m) is basically a mixed field slab that presents difficulty up to 75° IV+ and at the end of which there is a big overhanging cornice which must be climbed by heading straight into its left side. The 1st and the 4th pitch require good self control.

When the snow-ice conditions allow the route to be well shaped, then it can be easily visible from EOS Amfissas' refuge.

The repetition of this ascent requires a set of nuts, some medium friends and 2-3 pitons for the belays.

Source: Anevenontas i. 6, Korfes i. 138
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Area: Vardousia
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27