Tymfi - Astraka - NE. Face

Megalo shisma

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Megalo shisma" (V, 300m) was realized in 1978 by E. Knapp - K. Heeb - G. Werun, who followed the big crack that sunders Astraka's northeast face.

D. Bountolas - E. Tsilidou were the first to repeat this climb.

A variation of the route (VI A0, 50m) was realized on 15/8/1991 by D. Mpakalis - K. Liakos - M. Tsoukias.

The route was first climbed under ice conditions (III+ 4 M4, 425m) on 21/3/2005 by H. Mpelogiannis - A. Karapetakos, who found it in perfect conditions, while some of the parts that the route presented were of WI 4, AI 4, M4, 90°.

It must be mentioned that recession equipment was left on the rock during the unfinished attempt of a party who finally abandoned their effort in summer 2004. Therefore, climbers must be cautious not to be misled by those pieces of equipment. Actually, the abandoned slings on the 6th pitch which head upwards and to the right must not be followed by climbers as they lead nowhere correctly. The 6th pitch starts from a scree on the left of which there is a short wall where a piton, with old white slings tied on it, is located. On the right of the scree and exactly opposite the piton starts a crack-corner, relatively unstable, from the foot of which the slings can be seen. The route does not follow that course and it cannot be climbed as an alternative either. In fact one must pass head through the scree towards a mossy ramp and a vertical gully.

The route "Megalo shisma"

The variation of the route by Mpakalis - Liakos - Tsoukias

The upper part of the ice version of the route

The lower part of the ice version of the route

Source: EOOS - Climbing guidebook of Tymfi 1994, EOOS - Climbing guidebook of Astraka, Korfes i. 92, Anevenontas i. 31, A. Konstantinidis
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Tymfi
Location: Astraka
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27