Olympos - Stefani - W. Face

Michailidi - Xanthopoulou

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Michailidi - Xanthopoulou" (VI-, 260m) was realized on 1-2/8/1956 by G. Michailidis - G. Xanthopoulos and involved 1 bivouac.

The line is found on the west face of Stefani; it starts from the lowest point of the face and ends near the peak.

On 15/8/1966, A. Spanoudis - O. Ioannidis realized the first repetition of the route. The two climbers believed that they were climbing the route for the first time, while the only thing they were aware of was a previous attempt, made a year earlier by E. Arvanitidis - M. Douzis, who climbed the first 25m of the route, believing too that they were the first to climb that line.

There are 15 pitons placed all along the route, while all the belays are equipped with bolts, except for R7 and R8. The necessary equipment in order to climb the route comprises a set of nuts, a set of friends, pitons, 15 carabiners or quickdraws and slings. The quality of the rock is mediocre to good, allowing the placement of pros with no difficulty, thought there are a few loose parts at the 6th pitch.

The first pitch starts with a dihedral (V+) moving leftwards, up to a ledge with a bolt and a piton. It continues straight up on another dihedral (IV+), until a ledge, where the belay is set. The 2nd pitch follows a small dihedral (V+) and then it continues straight up and gets in another dihedral, a bigger one, in the middle of which the belay is set. The 3rd pitch moves on a dihedral, passes a blocked rock and then, after a few meters, it leads to a big ledge, where the belay is set. The 4th pitch follows a fissure (VI-) with grass, to the right of the belay, and then it moves to the left up until the base of a big chimney. The belay is set up a few meters higher, inside the chimney, in a narrow ledge. There is also an easier variation (III+) for this pitch, which avoids the fissure at the beginning of the pitch by passing from the left side of the belay, and from there straight up to the chimney. The 5th pitch continues in the chimney all the way up until its end and it follows a traverse to the left for 6m. The belay is located about 3m higher. The 6th pitch follows a loose dihedral and then it moves through some easy passages until the belay. The 7th pitch moves a bit to the right, on a loose rock, then straight up until a small overhanging passage (V), and finally it follows a dihedral that leads to a ledge, where the belay is set with the use of natural pros. The 8th pitch continues in a small chimney and then it follows easy passages and finally enters in another chimney, which leads to Stefani's ridge, where the belay is set with natural pros.

Following the ridge (II - III), the route finishes on the peak. In order to return, one can descend from the gully of Stefani.

Source: Anevenontas i. 3
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Olympos
Location: Stefani
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27