Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

Molon lave

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Molon lave" (VI, 110m) was realized on 11/9/2004 by D. Mavropoulos - V. Zekis. The route had been initially started in 2003 by D. Mavropoulos and K. Nitti.

The 1st pitch starts between the routes "Kentavros" and "Hristoforos Agnoglou", passes by a small roof and two water grooves and finally traverses to the right toward the 1st belay of "Hristoforos Agnoglou".

The 2nd pitch goes to the right and up, passes also by a small roof and finishes on a small ledge at the base of a big crack.

The 3rd pitch follows the aforementioned crack from its base till its end, where the route finishes.

All belays are equipped with double rings and are suitable for abseiling. The necessary protection rack for the repetition of the route comprises a set of nuts, a set of friends and slings. If 60m ropes are used for the climb, then the first two pitches can be united to one. During the first ascent of the route, a huge friend (Camalot #5) was placed at the water groove a few meters before the first bolt of the 1st pitch, as well as at a water groove a few meters above the 2nd belay station. This friend can be considered as an optional pro rather than an essential one.

Rusty pitons were found at two different points of the 1st pitch, which are said to have been placed by P. Botinis during an older attempt of his.

The first repetition of the route was realized by N. Kostopoulos - Th. Skopas - V. Koltsidas on 7/11/2004.

The route

D. Mavropoulos starting the route

D. Aivazidis on R2

Source: D. Mavropoulos
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27