Olympos - Skolio - N. Face

Nastou - Kinatidi

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Nastou - Kinatidi" (VI-, 440m) was realized in 1967 by Th. Nastos - D. Kinatidis.

The line, which is considered to be one of the classic routes of Skolio, lies in the centre of the crag and covers about 400m elevation change, on good quality rock.

D. Korres - F. Adamakopoulos were the first to repeat this climb.

A variation of the 3rd pitch (VI, 30m) was realized on 6/8/2006 by A. Mposkos - K. Papadopoulos. This variation goes straight up above the 2nd belay station, passes over a roof and, following a small belt, reaches the 3rd belay station. Small and medium friends are required for the protection of this variation.

The 1st pitch follows easy dihedrals (III+ / IV+) that lead to a ledge where the belay is set.

The 2nd pitch continues to the right, traversing under the big overhangs, until it reaches the belay, a bit before a crack - dihedral.

The 3rd pitch continues with a traverse to the right (IV+) and then upward, on vertical rocks, where it meets a dihedral (IV), at the end of which the belay is set. Alternatively, the 3rd pitch can be climbed via Mposkos - Papadopoulos' variation, straight up after the 2nd belay station.

The 4th pitch traverses to the right, on the characteristic loose ledge of the crag, up to the point where it meets the next belay, equipped with a piton and a rope sling.

The 5th pitch moves a bit to the right and then follows a difficult dihedral (V+), which leads to a sloping grassy ledge, where the belay is found.

On top of this belay there are two big dihedrals; the 6th pitch follows the one to the right (V+) that leads to a grassy ledge, where the belay is set. The exit to the belay requires caution due to the vegetation.

The 7th pitch follows the other dihedral, the one to the left (VI-), which leads to the belay, once again set on a grassy ledge.

The 8th pitch continues on another dihedral (VI-), which too leads to a ledge, where the belay is set. However, the exit to this ledge is extremely dangerous, mostly for the belayer, due to blocked rocks which are really loose and unsteady. It would be wise if the leader placed a piton on the wall to the left, so as to change the course of the ropes and prevent them from coming right under the belay, which could cause a rock fall.

The 9th pitch requires extreme caution, not because of its grading difficulty, but because of the trouble finding the correct exit from the face. Generally, moving toward the ridge, which is to the left, should be avoided, because it leads nowhere. The correct direction is up and to the right, following the easy climbing passages (II / III) inside the gullies, for about 150m. Towards the end of this area, the direction that must be followed is to right, entering in a shady dihedral (IV-), where the belay is set. Above the dihedral, two possible ways of exit appear: a chimney to the left and the continuance of the dihedral to the right.

The 10th pitch follows the chimney to the left, which appears to be the easiest (V+) and shortest way out. A few meters above the chimney, and a bit before the scree starts, the belay can be set, with the use of pitons.

Useful equipment for climbing the route would be a set of nuts, a set of friends (mostly small and medium), 4 - 5 pitons and slings. Many parts of the route are protected with pitons. All of the belays are also equipped, except for the 1st and the 10th ones.

In order to return, after finishing the route, one must walk on the scree, upwards and a bit to the left, for about 15min, until the ridge Skolio - Skala. Form there, the return footpath (to the left) is visible.

Topo of the route which is not as precise as the description

D. Mavropoulos in 8th pitch

Source: Anevenontas i. 3, D. Mavropoulos, A. Mposkos
Photographs: D. Aivazidis
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Olympos
Location: Skolio
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27