Parnassos - Kouvelos - S. Face

Oikogeneiaki ypothesi

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Oikogeneiaki ypothesi" (VIII, 350m) was realized on 14-15/6/2003 by G. Voutyropoulos - L. Mandrou.

The opening up of the route, which moves to the right of "Oliki epanafora", had started in 1995 by the brothers George and Nikos Voutyropoulos, that' s why it was named "Oikogeneiaki ypothesi" ("Family affair"). Eventually, due to repeated postponements, the route was completed 8 years later by G. Voutyropoulos and L. Mandrou, remaining that way a "Family affair".

The line involves many hard pitches, following the standards of the crag, on a very good quality limestone. During the opening up of the route, only a few permanent elements of protection (pitons and 8mm bolts) were left on the rock, which however offers many opportunities of using natural pros. Still, it is generally considered to be a very difficult and dangerous line.

In order to repeat the route, one should be equipped with a full set of nuts (mostly medium and big ones) as well as a full set of friends.

Escaping from this route is quite difficult, while the return is possible from the top.

The first repetition of the route was realized on 18-19/6/2006 by T. Simatis - A. Asimakopoulos; it involved two A0 at the 4th pitch, where the two climbers had to leave an extra piton, one A1 at the challenging passage of the 7th pitch and also a bivouac a bit before the exit.

The first free repetition of the route was realized on 3/9/2006 by G. Torelli - A. Thanopoulos, who free climbed it and rated at VIII the passage of the 7th pitch that during the first ascent and the first repetition had been aid climbed (A1). Besides, this was the first time that the route was climbed in one day (9h) without bivouac.

On the 7/9/2008, A. Grapsas - G. Voutyropoulos, while climbing the route "Diavase me", when they reached the ledge of its 9th pitch, where R8 of "Oikogeneiaki ypothesi" is placed, they continued straight up above this belay, and so first climbed a variation of the exit (VII-, 175m) of these two routes. In fact, escape gear (a nut and a sling) was found along the 1st pitch of this variation. For the final exit, the 6th pitch of the variation meets the last pitch (III, 50m) of "Mpampis Tsoupras", which comes from the right. The necessary equipment for repeating this variation is a full set of nuts and some friends (up to Camalot #3).

The route

"Variation of Grapsas - Voutyropoulos"

Source: Anevenontas i. 22 - i. 37, G. Torelli, G. Voutyropoulos
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Parnassos
Location: Kouvelos
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27