Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face


Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Rubicon" (VII-, 420m) was realized on 17/3/1978 by E. Mailander - N. Mailander - E. Weiss.

The route consists of two parts, the lower one (III, 150m) that moves mostly on the ridge and leads to the big ledge of the crag and the upper one (VII-, 270) which follows mainly dihedrals and thus leads to the ridge.

It is a very nice route that includes everything, but the predominating characteristic is the dihedral. There is no particular protection problem, without this decreasing the seriousness of the route, as the difficulty is rather continuous. As regards the upper part, one should be careful with the vegetation of the 3rd and the 4th pitch as well as with the loose rocks at the 6th pitch. The 6th and the 7th pitch can be united to one pitch 50m in length, but this requires great caution with the ropes.

In order to repeat this climb, the necessary rack consists of a full set of nuts (including micro-stoppers), a set of friends up to 3.5, hexentrics (1 small - 1 big), several slings and many quickdraws or carabiners.

Getting from the beach to the base of the ridge of "Rubicon" takes 45min via the west footpath that leads to the peak.

There are two possible ways to return after the finish of the climb. The first one is 5min walking on the ridge till the well with the oaks, from where the trail leads from the east face of the mountain to the road that goes to Ano Vasiliki. This choice is supposed to be easier, but requires transportation for the return back to Kryoneri. The second way is again 5min walk on the ridge until the well with the oaks, from where another footpath leads in 2h from the west face of the mountain to Kryoneri, by passing from the starting point at the base of the ridge of "Rubicon".

The upper part of the route

Source: Anevenontas i. 14
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27