Meteora - Amparia


Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Schildkrotenpfad" (V-, 200m) was realized on 21/4/1987 by B. Hochreiter - G. Doppelhofer.

It is a small and easy route, with short approach and quick return.

The 1st pitch moves on an easy and well protected slab.

The 2nd pitch goes directly up towards the water groove, then follows the water groove (V-) and finally leaves it, before its end, with a movement up and to the right, towards the belay station.

The 3rd pitch goes at first to the left and then up, towards the little tree, where it turns left so as to reach the belay station.

After R3 and in order to get to the summit notebook, we traverse to the left (II) until a rusty element of protection (self-construction) and then we climb on the scree (III) up until the bushes, at the mossy ledge. From there, we walk to the summit but we might need to get belayed for just a small pass (III-).

In order to descend, one has two options. Either to abseil from the route "Sudwestkante" (or any other route) or to return back by abseiling from the same route ("Schildkrotenpfad"), which would involve a 50m abseil from R3 to R1 and another 45m abseil from R1 to the ground.

Some of the initial elements of protection of the route have been replaced, that's why there are both bolts and rings on the route. However, in contrast with the rings, the bolts are hardly distinguishable on the rock, which means that one needs to get really close to manage to see them.

The essential gear for the repetition of this climb comprises only quickdraws.

Source: E. Katsikerou
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Area: Meteora
Published: 2009-03-05
Modified: 2011-05-27