Olympos - Stefani - E. Face

Schwab - Agliardi

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Schwab - Agliardi" (V-, 235m) was realized on 6/8/1939 by G. Schwab - N. Agliardi.

The line begins about 20m to the right of "Comici - Escher" and it crosses many of the routes of the field, and thus the possibility of combining several different pitches is given to the climbers. Therefore, the drawing and the description of the route are not a 100% accurate, as it possibly refers to other routes' pitches, but it basically follows the initial line.

The 1st pitch starts with an easy dihedral up to a comfortable ledge, where the belay is found. The 2nd pitch moves straight up on a slab and meets the belay in a small gully. The 3rd pitch follows that gully and then goes on with a traverse to the right until the belay which is set up on a vertical wall. The 4th pitch goes up a little, then turns to the right and finally to the left, in a dihedral, up to a small step, where the belay is found. The 5th pitch, which happens to be the most interesting one, follows the dihedral, and after passing a small overhang, it continues on an easy but quite loose field, until the belay which is found a bit to the right. This belay, equipped with an old piton, can be reinforced by placing a friend in the neighbouring crack. The climb ends with the 6th pitch, which comes out on the ridge, from where a traverse along the ridge of Stefani, in a leftward direction, leads to the summit.

No serious danger is caused by the quality of the rock, which appears to be good enough. In order to climb this route, the necessary equipment is a set of nuts and a few friends.

In order to return, one can descend from the gully of Stefani.

Source: D. Mavropoulos
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Olympos
Location: Stefani
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27