Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

Spasmeno ftero

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Spasmeno ftero" (VI, 200m) was realized on 29/6/2002 by D. Mavropoulos - D. Tyropolis.

The line moves to the right of "Botini - Spanoudi", between "Notios anemos" and "Taxidi ton Argonafton" and getting there requires 20min walking along the footpath that leads to the peak.

The route consists of five pitches, moving mainly on slabs. The 2nd pitch requires caution due to few loose rocks along its first meters, while the rest of the pitches move on excellent quality rock. The 3rd and the 4th pitch are the most interesting ones, not only due to the grade of difficulty, but also due to the nice and continuous moves involved. The 3rd pitch requires good crack technique, since its last and most difficult part follows a water groove involving a hard exit toward the belay. The 4th pitch requires strength as it is really long, it involves balance moves and, if properly protected, it takes at least 12 quickdraws.

Even though the most difficult passages are protected by bolts, climbing this route requires, apart from the 12 quickdraws, a set of nuts, 1 big friend (Wild Country #4 or respective Camalot) and slings. During the first ascent, the 2nd pitch was not equipped with permanent protection, but later, an Italian climbing party placed, "by momentum", 10 bolts on this pitch, while realizing the first ascent of the neighbouring "Taxidi ton Argonafton", and finally built the belay 6m lower than R2.

All belays of the route are set on comfortable ledges and are also equipped with double rings, suitable for abseiling.

The first repetition of the route was realized on 21/10/2002 by H. Mpelogiannis - K. Kollirou.

Source: D. Mavropoulos, Anevenontas i. 19, Korfes i. 157
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27