Gkiona - Pyramida - N. Face

Svarnistra

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Svarnistra" (V+, 290m) was realized on 9/8/1986 by F. Adamakopoulos - V. Hatzirvasanis.

The route begins from a characteristic dihedral (IV+) and continues on a slab (V+). The first belay is built on a ledge behind a block. The next three pitches are moving on an easy field, inside a large open couloir, with passages of a rating II - III. The 5th pitch starts with a dihedral (IV+) which gets narrow and then continues with a traverse on a slab (V). Follows an easy pitch (II - III), and then walking until the ridge and, from there, returning back.

The 1st and the 5th pitches, which are also the most difficult ones, can be well protected with nuts and cams. No permanent protection is placed on the line. In order to repeat the route, a set of nuts, cams and slings are required.

Source: T. Scopas
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Gkiona
Location: Pyramida
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27