Olympos - Skolio - N. Face

Ta aloga tou Ahilleos

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Ta aloga tou Ahilleos" (VII+ A0, 650m) was realized on 20/7/2005 by P. Athanasiadis - G. Kinatidis - G. Aliferis - L. Castaldi - N. Tsavdaris. The opening up of the route started in August 2003 and it was eventually completed after four successive attempts. It is dedicated to the memory of Giannis Kinatidis who lost his life at an early age while descending from the northern face of Kusum Kanguru on 13/5/2004.

The first repetition of the route was realized on 1/7/2007 by D. Papageorgiou - V. Naxakis, who rated the VII+ A0 of the 10th pitch at VII+.

During their first attempt, in August 2003, P. Athanasiadis - G. Kinatidis climbed the first three pitches, but after G. Kiantidis' death, P. Athanasiadis came back to continue in August 2004 with G. Aliferis. Together they climbed three more pitches. Then, on 18/7/2005, P. Athanasiadis - L. Castaldi opened up the most difficult pitches of the route and so reached R13. Finally, on 20/7/2005, P. Athanasiadis - N. Tsavdaris reached R12 from the left side, coming from inside the gorge, and climbed from the 13th pitch to the 16th one.

The line possibly shares the last 2 - 3 pitches with the route "Ioannidi - Eleftheriadi", since an old piton was found on the right side of the big overhang, at the end of the difficult pitches.

The average quality of the rock is good. However, there are some loose parts, but no serious protection problems are caused. In order to repeat the route, one should be equipped with a set of nuts, a set of friends, slings, quickdraws and carabiners.

Some of the route's belays are equipped with one bolt, so as to make it easier for climbers to retreat and to save them from having to carry hammer and pitons. Have in mind to back up any single bolts at the belays. Also, be aware that the pitons at the crux section (VII+) are not that great (carrying a couple of screamers would not be a bad idea), yet good gear can be placed before and after this difficult passage (3-4m). Escaping before the peak of the tower is possible from R9 - R7 - R3 - R2a - R1 (with the use of 60m ropes). Reversing the rope from R3 might be a problem. Escaping from a higher point of the route is difficult. One or two abseils from R12 and R14 lead to the gorge, left to the ridge, on a loose field, and from there down to R6 with easy downclimbing.

The upper part of the route

The lower part of the route

Source: P. Athanasiadis, D. Papageorgiou, Anevenontas i. 33, Korfes i. 175
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Olympos
Location: Skolio
Published: 2006-01-05
Modified: 2011-05-27