Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face

Taxidi ton Argonafton

Rock, Sport

The first ascent of the route "Taxidi ton Argonafton" (VIII+ (VII+ A0), 610m) was realized on 21-27/4/2003 by the Italians from Trieste, P. Pezzolato - S. Gojak - D. Crosato - M. Zebochin.

The line starts 2m to the right of "Spasmeno ftero", with which it follows the same 2nd pitch, and it ends to the ridge of Varasova, with exit to the right of "Foteino monopati". At first, it moves on the first wall, until the ledge (275m) and then after some walking (20min) it continues on the second wall (335m) so as to finally reach the ridge.

The 2nd pitch is common (thought quite shorter) to the 2nd pitch of the neighbouring but previous route, "Spasmeno ftero". The Italians placed 10 bolts on this pitch, which until then was climbed with only the use of natural pro.

Apart from 14 quickdraws and a few slings, no other pros, such as nuts, friends or pitons, are required.

In general, the route is overprotected, even the easy parts. The pitches are protected by 121 bolts. All belays are set and dispose a total of 33 bolts, giving that way the possibility to escape or return by abseiling.

There are three possible ways to return. The first one is to descend abseiling down the same route. The second one is the footpath that leads down to Kryoneri (to the west) and passes from the base of the route. The third one is the footpath that leads down to Vasiliki (to the east). The easiest and fastest way to return is the footpath to Vasiliki, especially in case it is already getting dark, but keep in mind that this solution requires transportation planning for the return back to Kryoneri.

The upper part of the route

The lower part of the route

The slabs to the lower part of the route

The amazing view from the route

Source: P. Pezzolato, D. Mavropoulos
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27