Tymfi - Tsouka Rossa - NE. Face

Ton Artinon

Mixed, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Ton Artinon" (50° (75°), 400m) was realized on 10/4/2005 by V. Zolotas - N. Pallas in 8h.

The line follows the gully which is found to the left of the gully where the route "Houni tis perdikas" moves. At first, the route moves on the left side of the gully (45° - 55°) with direction toward the vertical icy passage on the left side of the first rocks, while on the right side of these rocks the angle does not exceed the 45° - 50°. This vertical passage (75°, 20m), a narrow gully covered with ice, is rather the most difficult part that one shall meet while climbing this route. After that, the line moves rightward and passes from the right side of the next rocks by following an ice - snow gully (70°, 20m). Right after this passage, the gully becomes more narrow while the angle remains stable (50° - 55°) until the exit.

In order to climb this route, one shall need a full set of nuts, 2 - 3 pitons, 2 pickets and 2 - 3 ice screws. The bigger part of the route can be ascended in parallel movement, while the protection by means of anchors is necessary only for the two vertical parts. In fact, for the first vertical passage, ice screws are maybe the only way of protection.

Approaching the route takes 3h, depending on the quantity and the condition of the snow, from the crossroads before Vrysohori, following the road that leads to Magoula.

Returning requires 10h of walking, if the snow is hard, and it actually involves descending from the North side through Neraidovrysi. After the exit of the route, we move to the right, passing from the col of Goura and Tsouka Rossa and then we move northwards toward Loutsa Katsanou. From there, we go down the gully, northeastwards, from where we traverse to the right eastwards and we get to Neraidovrysi. The marking, which belongs to the summer track O3, is not adequate, that's why caution is required so as not to miss the right spot for the traverse to Neraidovrysi. From Neraidovrysi we continue traversing until we meet the dirt road. After that, we take a turn to the right and follow the dirt road until we meet the provincial road of Vrysohori at the point where it crosses the road to Magoula. While walking on this dirt road, without the use of the local map, one might have problems during night returning since there is a crisscross of such dirt roads all crossing each other.

Source: V. Zolotas, Anevenontas i. 33
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Tymfi
Location: Tsouka Rossa
Published: 2005-12-10
Modified: 2011-05-27