Olympos - Skolio - N. Face


Mixed, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Trypa" (III+ 3 M2) was realized on 11/3/2000 by G. Voutyropoulos - M. Zervas - N. Koutsouki.

This line is the first winter route on Skolio and probably the easiest choice on this crag as far as winter ascents are concerned. It is on the right side of the crag, a few meters to the right of the route "Ioannidi - Gounaridi", and follows a direct course. The first two pitches of the route are vertical and move on an ice field. Then, the route follows a narrow gully which then becomes an open crag (35° - 45°) up to the base of the final wall from where one ice pitch (with a huge hole - crevasse that makes things much harder) lead to the ridge, about 100m below the peak. The difficulty of this route reaches the 85° on ice, while the general difficulty is III+ 3 M2.

In order to climb this route, one should be equipped with pitons, nuts, friends, slings and binners. The total time of the climb is from 4h to 6h.

Approaching this route requires descending straight down from the Portes pass until the characteristic rock at the bottom of Kazania. The route starts at about a 100m higher. In order to return to the refuges of the plateau, one must pass through Skala, ascend to Mytikas and then descend from the gully.

Source: Anevenontas i. 9 - i. 16
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Olympos
Location: Skolio
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27