Vardousia - Skorda Pitimalikou - NW. Face

Ventouza

Mixed, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Ventouza" (II 2 M3, 150m) was realized on 1/4/2007 by G. Petromianos - I. Politis - N. Mpevouda - I. Palapanoglou, during the courses of a mountaineering school.

This route follows the exact same line as "Louki ton arharion", until before the exit gully. From there, "Ventouza" follows a traverse for a few meters to the left, ignoring a very beautiful chimney; then, it goes up on a wall, passing to the left of a hole, and finally reaches a narrow ridge, where the belay is built. This is also the hardest pitch of the route, since it is usually completely dry. Next, the route moves along the ridge until it gets to a flat slope, where actually it ends.

In order to repeat this climb, the necessary equipment should comprise a set of nuts, a few friends, a few pitons and slings.

The approach to the route involves traversing along the base of the crag and it takes approximately 15min from the big refuge. In order to return, after having completed the ascent, one must follow the ridge, right after the exit of the route, to the left and down, toward the first open space, which is named Koprissies. As soon as the left slope becomes flat, move downwards so as to meet and follow the footpath that leads from Profitis Ilias to the refuge; this will take about 1h. An alternative and shorter way to return is the steep descent via "Viragos" gully, which is on the left side of the ridge and which leads to the sheepfolds in about 25min.

Source: G. Petromianos, I. Palapanoglou
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Vardousia
Published: 2007-06-28
Modified: 2011-05-27