Meteora - Toihos Tou Gypa


Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Westkante" (VI, 140m) was realized on 24/4/1984 by D. Hasse - S. Konig.

This line is one of the most beautiful routes of Meteora, offering a really nice feeling while climbing as well as a great view, since from the 3rd pitch and after it moves on a narrow ridge.

The quality of the rock is good, without dangerous parts. Moreover, the 2nd pitch could be considered as the crux pitch of the route, as it requires use of natural protection.

Despite the fact that the route is well protected, the 1st pitch, which is not equipped with permanent protection, requires the placement of 2 slings on two little trees at the beginning of the pitch, while a full set of nuts and some small and medium friends are needed for the 2nd pitch. For the rest of the pitches 6 quickdraws are necessary.

This route has been subject to a few interventions in order to become safer and thus more popular. In fact, the 2nd pitch was initially equipped with 1 permanent in-between piece of protection but afterwards another one was placed. Also, the 3rd pitch was equipped with 5 permanent in-between pieces of protection and later on a new one was added as well.

Approach and return are rather easy and climbing does not require too much time. The descent involves abseils, starting to the left of R5. In relation to this matter, the climbing guidebook of Meteora mentions 3 abseils (25m, 30m, 40m), but these can actually be replaced by 2 (50m, 30m). The 1st abseil (50m) starts at the top of a chimney, inside which it moves (25m) and then it follows down a dihedral (25m) until a small recess of the rock to the right, where there are 2 rings for the belay station. The 2nd abseil continues along the dihedral (15m) and then smoothly gets to the ground (15m).

Source: D. Mavropoulos
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Area: Meteora
Published: 2007-04-14
Modified: 2014-02-27