Gkiona - Pyramida - N. Face


Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Zouzou" (VIII- A1, 240m) was realized on 4/7/2003 by G. Milias - I. Kazais. M. Panagiotou, Ch. Tsoutsias, A. Theodorakatos, Tz. Karali, N. Nafpliotis, Ch. Paterakis, I. Kazais and P. Karamperopoulos were the ones who helped G. Milias during the opening up of the route.

The line is located between the routes "Ftera ton aeton" and "Endymionas". It follows solid slabs of continuous and relatively equable difficulty. It should be mentioned that the last pitch is the only one where the protection elements were placed top-rope. All other pitches, each one having its own special aesthetics, were first ascended from ground to top.

Regarding the equipment, only quickdraws are required (totally 14). Although it looks like the last pitch requires 19 quickdraws, in fact it doesn't, since the bolts are placed the one near the other (so as to facilitate aid climbing) and therefore many of them can be ignored. Also, a set of nuts and 2 - 3 medium friends could optionally be used, especially if natural protection possibilities (cracks, threads) are taken advantage of, instead of using the bolts. At the 3rd pitch, after the 2nd bolt, the route continues with a traverse to the right, at the beginning of which you can either place a sling in a thread or a Camalot #4. At the 6th pitch, the route follows the slabs and not the grassy parts, where the belays of the neighbouring routes are found.

Return is possible either from the belays of the same route or from other, neighbouring belays.

E. Moshovits - D. Aivazidis - D. Mavropoulos were the first to repeat the route on 26/7/2003.

Source: Korfes i. 163, Anevenontas i. 24, D. Mavropoulos
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Gkiona
Location: Pyramida
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27